What Is a Greatcoat? Greatcoat vs Overcoat Explained

Updated October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.

Where the greatcoat comes from

The greatcoat is a military coat. From the eighteenth century onwards, armies across Europe issued soldiers a heavy wool coat to wear over their uniform jacket on campaign. It had to keep a man warm sleeping outdoors, so it was long, thick and roomy, with a big collar that could be turned up against the wind. The name simply meant a great, or large, coat.

Officers had theirs tailored, with a sharper cut, better cloth and double breasted fronts. Those officer greatcoats are what the civilian version is based on. After the world wars, surplus greatcoats ended up on civilian backs, and the look moved into everyday menswear. It never left.

Greatcoat vs overcoat

Every greatcoat is an overcoat, but not every overcoat is a greatcoat. The difference is scale and structure.

Who suits a greatcoat?

• Slim men. The broad shoulders and wide lapels add width to a narrow frame. It is one of the best coats for building out a slight build.
• Tall men. The long length and big proportions look natural on a tall frame.
• Shorter men, with care. A greatcoat can work, but keep everything else streamlined: slim trousers, sleek shoes, no bulky scarf. The strong shoulder actually helps, because it draws the eye up. Our guide to overcoat length by height has more tips.
• Broad men. It will add more width, so if you are already very broad you may prefer a single breasted coat with a cleaner line.

How to wear a greatcoat

• Keep it buttoned. Like any double breasted coat, a greatcoat looks best closed. Open, the front panels flap and lose their shape.
• Over a suit or morning dress for weddings, funerals and formal events. This is where the coat is most at home.
• Over a thick roll-neck and dark trousers for a winter evening without a tie.
• With dark jeans and boots if you want the military edge. Keep the colours dark and the shapes simple, and let the coat do the talking.
• Turn the collar up in wind. That is what it was designed for.

Our greatcoat

Our Men's Black Wool Cashmere Greatcoat is the broadest, most structured coat we make.

Sizing is true to size and cut to go over a suit jacket. Order your chest measurement, and see our overcoat size guide if you are between sizes.

If you like the double breasted look but want something a little less imposing, the Black Double Breasted Long Overcoat (£150) has a softer shoulder, or try the Black Polo Coat (£160) with its half belt and turn-up cuffs.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a greatcoat and an overcoat?

A greatcoat is a type of overcoat with military roots. It is always double breasted and has broader, more structured shoulders, wider lapels and usually a longer length than a standard overcoat.

Why is it called a greatcoat?

Simply because it was a great, meaning large, coat. It was the big heavy coat soldiers wore over their uniform in cold weather.

Is a greatcoat warm?

Yes. The double breasted front gives two layers of wool across the chest, the length covers your legs and the wide collar can be turned up against wind. It is one of the warmest smart coats you can wear.

Can you wear a greatcoat casually?

Yes, with dark jeans, boots and a chunky knit. Keep the rest of the outfit simple and dark so the coat looks deliberate rather than costume.

Should a greatcoat be buttoned?

Yes. As a double breasted coat, a greatcoat is designed to be worn buttoned. Worn open it loses its shape.